From Holland College, PEI to Hawksworth Judge & Beyond

New Brunswick-born and PEI-educated, Chef Chris Stewart never stopped fulfilling his goal of career travels and culinary development, eventually landing the position of Chef de Cuisine with Hawksworth Restaurant.

Now, on the move again, we caught up with Chef Stewart to learn more about his journey and where he’s headed next.

Born in New Brunswick, what do you recall as your first food memory? What was the first thing you learned to cook?

I grew up in a potato farming region, home to McCain’s and Covered Bridge Potato Chips. The food I ate growing up was very simple - meat and potatoes for the most part. Aside from throwing something into the microwave or oven, I didn’t actually start cooking until I developed a taste for omelets. I found every possible manner of messing them up along the way, but eventually figured them out.

Describe your motivation to attend culinary school, and some of your favourite learnings or moments from your time at Holland College, Prince Edward Island.

I didn’t decide to pursue a career in cooking until the final few months of high school. The decision came down to finding a career that will allow me to travel extensively and not have to sit behind a desk; I wanted to work with my hands.

It was fall of 1999 and I remember a classmate coming in with a brand-new copy of the French Laundry Cookbook. It was unlike anything I had ever seen, granted I really had no idea of the calibre of food available on the global stage. I loved all of the little details, the care given to every component; this is something that has stuck with me.

Through your early career, you had partaken in stages and chef positions in Toronto, California, Banff, England and Kelowna. What were some of the favourite techniques or flavour pairings you picked up along the way? 

I took many valuable lessons from each place but one of the most pivotal times for me as a chef was when I started to better understand the world of wine while I was in the Okanagan. It completely changed my thought process for dish development and made me more aware of the fact that they are both equal in the dining experience. If either isn’t chosen carefully, it can ruin a meal.

You eventually made your way to Vancouver and became Chef de Cuisine at Hawksworth Restaurant. How did this come to be and why was it a right fit for you?

I had been looking at making the move to Vancouver from Kelowna for about two months before getting a call from another Vancouver chef about the chef de cuisine (CDC) opening. A month later, I was standing at the helm of one of the country’s most respected kitchens; a shark tank with a fast, competitive, and highly dedicated team. It was exactly what I was looking for.

What are some top tips, techniques or mindsets that really helped you flourish in this position?

The CDC job was multi-faceted and required a high level of organization. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the restaurant, catering, the Scholarship program and Air Canada food development summed up my responsibilities neatly. Staying one step ahead is crucial and I have always been a fan of writing lists to achieve this. They help to prioritize tasks and ideally free up time for when the unexpected happens.

Describe how you became involved in the Hawksworth Young Chef Scholarship and why you believe it’s important for chefs to partake in these types of events outside the restaurant kitchen.

As CDC for Hawksworth Restaurant, it was a natural transition to get involved in the Hawksworth Young Chef Scholarship. Even since leaving, I have chosen to remain very closely involved, as I am a strong believer in the program. We are fortunate to have a panel of the country’s culinary leaders providing constructive feedback to the next generation of the Canadian culinary scene. We see some serious talent every year and I believe that it is important for us to help nurture and grow that talent. I feel honored to be in a position where I can give back. With this program, we have the unique opportunity to continue to build a community of Canadian chefs and we are able to mentor competitors beyond just the competition.

What are some things you look for as a HYCS judge?

We are diligent about maintaining anonymity during the tastings for all of the competitions so I don’t get to taste the finished plates. My role, outside of coordination, is to assess cooking competencies in the kitchen. I look for cleanliness, organization, proper technique, as well as the competitor’s mentorship of their assistant during the allocated cooking time. That last point is especially important to us as it furthers our message of creating a community of young chefs and developing the next generation. 

What advice would you give a future participant of the HYCS?

1. Take the leap and try. Sure, it’s stressful but you will thank yourself later.
2. Keep your dish simple, clean, and thoughtful.
3. Practice and perfect.

What comes next for Chef Chris Stewart?

I’m going into the fashion business.